Extras
There are some options/additions on Alto that are not standard on a Ranger Tug, so here are some details since there will be no information in the RT literature about them. However, let’s start with an amazing standard feature that no one talks about much. Ranger Tugs have, at least this model does, integrated lights in the transom for trailering, like turn signals, brake and stop lights!
See the photo below. Up in the anchor rode compartment if you reach around you’ll find a long wire terminating in a trailer wiring harness connector. Pull out the wiring harness and you can plug the boat, itself, into your truck’s trailer lights! I sistered up a parallel harness connector to the standard trailer rig (took half an hour), so both the boat’s integrated lights work along with the trailer’s taillights and side lights. Pretty great visibility when on the road with the lights on.
There are some options/additions on Alto that are not standard on a Ranger Tug, so here are some details since there will be no information in the RT literature about them. However, let’s start with an amazing standard feature that no one talks about much. Ranger Tugs have, at least this model does, integrated lights in the transom for trailering, like turn signals, brake and stop lights!
See the photo below. Up in the anchor rode compartment if you reach around you’ll find a long wire terminating in a trailer wiring harness connector. Pull out the wiring harness and you can plug the boat, itself, into your truck’s trailer lights! I sistered up a parallel harness connector to the standard trailer rig (took half an hour), so both the boat’s integrated lights work along with the trailer’s taillights and side lights. Pretty great visibility when on the road with the lights on.
Aqualarm &
Urine Pump Wiring
These components are unique to Alto. The after-market wiring to the Aqualarm and urine pump are forward in the cockpit floor lazarette, near the drain valve (green arrow below) for the hot water tank is. You need to drain that tank to winterize, of course, so the drain valve is easily accessible and visible at the forward end of the compartment. Near it you’ll also see the bunch of colored thin wires there, too. So rather then wonder what they are for, I’ll explain it all here.
The Aqualarm and urine pump both use very thin gauge solid copper wiring in a multi-conductor group of wires (purple wire) that are wrapped together; i.e., thermostat wire. The group contains spare wires for other projects down the road; see the spare spare brown and white wires coiled and stored in the picture below. The wires all lead to the V-berth area (back of the steering station control panel) concealed in the side of the starboard hull.
You can access the wires by removing the mouse fur covered panel in the V-berth directly behind the dashboard. This gives you great access and visibility to work on wiring. They lead into the electrical panel and attach to the back of the Aqualarm (mounted on the dashboard) and to the switch that activates the urine pump. So if the Aqualarm or the switch to the urine pump ever fail, now you know where to look to check the connections.
Four wires go through the engine compartment’s wall, with two to the in-line Aqualarm gizmo mounted in the hose going from the raw seawater strainer to the front of the engine. You’ll easily see it along the right forward side of the engine. Two more wires go through the wall to the high heat
detector, which is a stainless strap mounted around the giant heavy duty hose coming out of the top of the engine and heading to the plastic muffler aft.
Two more wire reverse course and head to the 12v urine pump which is on the floor of the lazarette in the middle against the hull. Find the clear plastic tube and follow it until you see the pump which is out in the open for easy servicing. Be careful not to drop heavy stuff on it when loading the lazarette with gear.
Filling the Spare Water Tank
Alto’s holding tank, which never ever had any poo in it, now serves as a 30 gallon spare water tank. You can see the big plastic square tank just aft of the engine under the floor of the cockpit. To fill the tank, you stick a garden hose into what used to be the holding tank pump-out port (see the blue arrow in the picture below). The red arrow points to the fuel inlet. The Y-valve needs to be shut off, to keep the tank from draining, more about that in a moment. Incidentally, the fan for the exhaust on the AirHead toilet is located near here, aft (Duh!) of where you sit in the cockpit so you don’t smell anything.
Two more wire reverse course and head to the 12v urine pump which is on the floor of the lazarette in the middle against the hull. Find the clear plastic tube and follow it until you see the pump which is out in the open for easy servicing. Be careful not to drop heavy stuff on it when loading the lazarette with gear.
Filling the Spare Water Tank
Alto’s holding tank, which never ever had any poo in it, now serves as a 30 gallon spare water tank. You can see the big plastic square tank just aft of the engine under the floor of the cockpit. To fill the tank, you stick a garden hose into what used to be the holding tank pump-out port (see the blue arrow in the picture below). The red arrow points to the fuel inlet. The Y-valve needs to be shut off, to keep the tank from draining, more about that in a moment. Incidentally, the fan for the exhaust on the AirHead toilet is located near here, aft (Duh!) of where you sit in the cockpit so you don’t smell anything.
Pumping Water from the Spare to the Main Tank
Alto’s Y-valve is located under the deck of the cockpit to aft. To get to it, open the wooden doors shown below on the left, and you’ll see an oval hinged hatch in the floor of that aft lazarette. Open it, and use the bungi cord to hold it open. With a flashlight you can see the steering gear and the big gray plastic handle attached to the Y-valve shown in the right-side photo below. You’ll also see the macerator pump in there, top left corner. The piece of blue tape shows two positions; “fill”and “empty.” Make sure the Y-valve handle is turned to “fill” when the holding tank with water as described in the previous section.
Alto’s Y-valve is located under the deck of the cockpit to aft. To get to it, open the wooden doors shown below on the left, and you’ll see an oval hinged hatch in the floor of that aft lazarette. Open it, and use the bungi cord to hold it open. With a flashlight you can see the steering gear and the big gray plastic handle attached to the Y-valve shown in the right-side photo below. You’ll also see the macerator pump in there, top left corner. The piece of blue tape shows two positions; “fill”and “empty.” Make sure the Y-valve handle is turned to “fill” when the holding tank with water as described in the previous section.
When your main water tank starts to read empty (gauge is top right on the dashboard. Hint: it only works when the ignition is on), you may want to refill it from the water stored in the holding tank. To do this, set the Y-valve to “empty.” Then turn your attention to finding the discharge hose used to fill the main FW tank which is amidships. Find the discharge hose in the starboard floor lazarette area shown by the green arrow above.
Open the floor lazarette and you’ll see a short hose with a green female bib-valve attached. Take the 10’ of spare hose you see with the velcro strap holding it and attach the
male end to the female bib. Run the length of the hose into the cabin, open the window over the stove and reach out and screw off the main water tank cap.
It hangs on a chain so you won’t lose it. Stick the end of the hose into the water tank filler. Go back and make sure the green hose bib-valve is open (set the little handle inline with the hose). Then just go to the dashboard and switch on the macerator pump until it runs dry or it overflows the main water tank.
About that Rear Lazarette…
When documenting a boat, the boat’s hull number must be carved in or inscribed to a non-removable part of the boat for permanent identification. Alto’s documentation number is fiberglassed into the back wall of the rear lazarette as shown below left. You can register the boat in NC, but I’d recommend you document it and Rob Strott can describe the pros and cons of both.
Below right see a photo inside the floor of the lazarette looking, again, at the macerator pump. You can see the AirHead’s gray exhaust hose laying there going to the exhaust fan leading to the port in the transom. See the split fitting that lets you pull the hose apart and inspect its insides? Every now and then (couple years) pull it apart as condensate forms in there, along with who knows what else might also appear. Just check it once in a while. Don’t forget to listen for the exhaust pump (it’s very quiet) mounted on the transom, on a still night you can hold a candle flame in front of it to see if it is pulling air out from the solids tank on the AirHead.
It hangs on a chain so you won’t lose it. Stick the end of the hose into the water tank filler. Go back and make sure the green hose bib-valve is open (set the little handle inline with the hose). Then just go to the dashboard and switch on the macerator pump until it runs dry or it overflows the main water tank.
About that Rear Lazarette…
When documenting a boat, the boat’s hull number must be carved in or inscribed to a non-removable part of the boat for permanent identification. Alto’s documentation number is fiberglassed into the back wall of the rear lazarette as shown below left. You can register the boat in NC, but I’d recommend you document it and Rob Strott can describe the pros and cons of both.
Below right see a photo inside the floor of the lazarette looking, again, at the macerator pump. You can see the AirHead’s gray exhaust hose laying there going to the exhaust fan leading to the port in the transom. See the split fitting that lets you pull the hose apart and inspect its insides? Every now and then (couple years) pull it apart as condensate forms in there, along with who knows what else might also appear. Just check it once in a while. Don’t forget to listen for the exhaust pump (it’s very quiet) mounted on the transom, on a still night you can hold a candle flame in front of it to see if it is pulling air out from the solids tank on the AirHead.
Fueling
Fuel filling can be a little nerve wracking, since most new boaters don’t realize that once you tie up to a fuel dock the service person hands you the diesel hose to fill your own boat. They don’t touch the boat to avoid liability issues. So you remove the cap at the green arrow referenced above in the previous diagram of the transom, and stick the fuel nozzle in it.
You are required to have a remediation system to avoid fuel spills, which means you hold a rag in your left hand while you press the trigger of the nozzle to put diesel into the fuel tank. Alto’s fuel remediation system is a fluffy rag I hold under the nozzle when fueling, find it in the aft lazarette. These nozzles don’t automatically stop like they do when you fuel a car in a gas station so you stay alert and need to know this trick:
So, you bend down and keep your ear near the nozzle–say about two feet away–and listen. There is, of course, a fuel vent which is a little silver cap near the fueling intake port which lets air out of the tank as you fill it with fuel. When you start to hear a “glugging” sound you know you are getting close to full. The glug-glug sound becomes quite loud and that means fuel is not easily replacing air anymore since the tank ain’t empty, so stop pumping before you need to use the rag to prevent spillage. And, you’re done. After the first time, you’ll be an expert.
Reset the Garmin to Full Fuel
I’ve found that this is not intuitive. In the dashboard compartment to port you’ll find a quick guide to using the Garmin’s touch screen functions, with a page marked about resetting the Fuel tank indicator to “full.” The smart move is to use always use the Yanmar Gauge which tells you how much fuel remains in the tank, as opposed to the Garmin that estimates remaining fuel based on consumption calculated by speed and engine RPM.
However, the Garmin, of course, does not recognize use of the generator which depletes diesel, so the Yanmar gauge is most accurate – especially if you are using the GenSet a lot. But, the gauge is located low on the dash, is dim and hard to see so everyone tends to rely on the Garmin. You’ll find a cigarette lighter powered gooseneck mounted LED light, which will illuminate the Yanmar gauge making it a whole lot more visible. Still, you’ll want to reset the Garmin to let it know the tank is full after you refuel.
Just about every other function is easy to use, and intuitive on the Garmin. Since you’ll want to reset the Garmin soon after you refuel, study the guide before approaching the fuel dock since you usually can’t linger on it while you read manuals! Or, you’ll be fumbling through functions trying to figure it out which is a good way to raise your anxiety level! I’d explain how to do it, but I always forget since I only refuel once a season or so as the boat is so fuel efficient.
Other Thoughts
On the boat is a White Log Book, which lists all details of items on the boat, bulbs, fluids it takes and amounts, etc. I’ll also pass on in MS Word form so you can modify it as time goes on, print and replace pages as you go along.
Preventing Mildew on the Dock. Mildew happens wherever there is humidity. Prevent this when on a dock with power by setting the Marine A/C control to “Hum1” which means you are in dehumidify mode. You’ll not have A/C but it will save power and keep the boat dry. The manual shows you how to press two buttons at the same time on the control at the same time until the display says Hum1.
No Power on the Dock or Mooring. OK, you’ll get mildew but you can treat it quickly and reduce its spread. Find a spray bottle of 6% bleach under the sink in the bathroom, spray the spot and tamp it dry with a clean paper towel or white rag. Mildew happens, keep up with it!
Painting the Front Door. The glass door is made of aluminum and it eventually interacts with the paint to corrode. Every couple years, I sand some bare spots where the paint has flaked off of the aluminum on the inside of the door and spray it with brown glossy Rustoleum paint, which you will find in the kitchen floor-level lazarette with all the other fluids. Someday, if you have the energy, sand the entire rim of the door (it only happens on the inside edge of the door) and paint it.
Fluids. In the same lazarette there is enough (expensive) Yanmar antifreeze to flush and replace the antifreeze at the 250 hour mark, which you are still a long way from. There are bottles of hydraulic steering fluid, a spare quart of oil (use Amazon Basic’s synthetic diesel engine oil). When you change the oil, which is not difficult, check the amount of gear oil in the thing at the back of the engine that leads to the drive shaft. There is a dipstick on the little diesel Yanmar generator engine. I always forget if you screw it all the way in or not to measure the oil. Luckily this is noted in the White Log Book.
Anodes. There is a tiny anode (zinc) to replace on the generator, as well as two bigger anodes to replace in the engine. You’ll find many spares and all are painted with red nail polish so you can spot them. Special wrenches are provided to make it easy and this is detailed a bit in the Log Book. There are anodes on the tip of the propeller and on each trim tab and spares are onboard. Get them from West Marine or online. The White Log Book defines all the item numbers. The Side Power thrusters each take a special aluminum/zinc combination anode. They are not hard to replace with an Allen Wrench but it should be done when the boat is pulled out. Paint type is defined in the Log Book.
Impeller: I’d get the impeller replaced by a Yanmar diesel mechanic as it is hard to access and getting the serpentine “fan” belt off is tough. Two hours at $120/hour does it. Spares are on board. And that’s it, fluids, anodes and the impeller need replacing yearly or less if the boat is out of the water or not used much.
Keys. I’ll leave a ton of key sets for the front door (that key blank comes from Europe and is like $20) and the engine. There is a hasp in the floor lazarette in the cockpit to which you can affix a chain and padlock if you store a small 1.5 HP outboard engine in there as it fits perfectly. You are a place to keep it on the stern rail, too.
Lights. Most lights have been changed over to LEDs to save power. See the white notebook log for sizes and types if you ever have to replace them. NOTE: The running lights on the topside of the cabin are still standard incandescent–after all you only use them when the engine is running so saving power is not needed. The masthead anchor light is an expensive LED which uses very little power, since your engine if off (and usually your generator is too) on the anchor.
Cooling. We never used the generator to run the A/C. In the north we got by with Ryobi Lithium battery powered fans from Home Depot. Get a 12v charger which fits in the dash board opening compartment right near the cigarette lighter, and recharge the batteries every couple days. Same batteries will run your drill, vacuum, flashlight, etc.
Radio/CD Player. The radio/CD player works but it gets poor reception has Ranger Tugs does not connect it to an outside antennae. It has a wire hanging that serves for close range. There is a remote control that works and is cool. Figure out a way to plug in your iPhone for music–but that was beyond us old folks who just read. BTW, the wires are all accessible through the glove compartment. I’ve tried to get it wired so you can fade from V-berth area to the cabin, but I never figured it out, so it’s back to “factory settings.”
VHR Radio. Via the internet change the MIS # on the radio to your name and address, etc. so when you hit the emergency orange button the radio alerts help for you (not me). Find the MIS # in the White Log Book, and instructions in the radio’s manual.
Manuals. They are all in the sachel, but some are in the dashboard glove box for the Garmin, and some diagrams for things like wiring and the quick disconnect plumbing fittings on the head are in the White Log Book.
Spare Parts. You’ll gradually build up spare parts like fuses, etc. I’ll look up north and can probably send you some stuff if it doesn’t fit my R31 I’m aiming to get when the COVID thing reduces a bit.
Trailer. You’ll need new brakes, rotors and calipers and that sounds expensive given four wheels, but trailer parts are much less than for a car. The trailer hasn’t been exposed to salt water in at least five years, maybe 7-8. Rarely used, we would bring the boat to a marina (like Key Largo) and use the forklift (it’s small enough) to put it in a rack and leave it there for a season for $450/month. We would store the trailer nearby and at the end of the season, the fork lift would drop it on the trailer, making for precision lining up and keeping the trailer out of salt water. We hired a professional to pull the trailer back and forth, but for like $100 more each way he could use his own trailer. And even pull if from the water saving us fork lift fees.
We store the trailer on blocks to get the weight off the tires and wheels. Still rain water does a job and rusts things. I have replaced the brakes, rotors and calipers for around $120 per wheel so it’s not crazy money, but you’ll do that more often if you put the trailer into salt water. Rinsing with a hose or dunking in a freshwater pond just doesn’t do it.
Those tires are unusual and the big tire rack houses don’t stock them. It takes a day or so to get them from the warehouse. So, you’ve got three spares tires to prevent getting stuck while waiting for new tire, killing time in a motel in the middle of nowhere. They usually are not radials, but they are 14 ply since that boat is HEAVY. Figure $115/tire. Sadly, even if you don’t use the trailer, the tires develop dry rot and “should” be replaced every five years. Just didn’t seem as practical to tow the thing around myself like some folks do on TugNuts…
My advice: Fix up the brakes, and sell it for around $3000. Use a hauler. Then you won’t need a $70,000 diesel F250 or F350 either! Scared me to death towing that thing around, especially with a a gas powered F350 which was no good for long distances. Read more on TugNuts, but I’m done with trailering – especially with an R31!
Batteries: All four are maintenance free long-life HD sealed AGM batteries. Replaced just a few months ago. Enough said!
Canvas: The canvas all came from the factory supplier, King in Washington state. It is all made of Sunbrella waterproof fabric and should be treated, per Sunbrella, every few years with 303 Fabric Guard which is available by the gallon at West Marine or cheaper on Amazon. I have a backpack garden sprayer with an electric pump, or you can use a pump up sprayer and spray all the fabric in a couple years. Make sure it is clean of bird poop, etc.
After the boat last came out of the water, the best sail and canvas maker on the Cape restitched the entire bimini top and I then sprayed it with 303. In fact, all fabric cushions were sprayed, including the boat cushions and the Sunbrella covered mattress toppers which will save your shoulders and hips if you are over 40. The factory mattresses are HARD and we ached some after a night on them. Of course we have two sets of fitted sheets for each side of the V-berth. I like to store clothes on one side, and sleep on the other. HINT: You can flip one mattress topper over and put it on top of the other, thus giving you a VERY cushy sleep. Then store your stuff on the other berth.
Alto has tons of storage, far more than an R31 since no microwave or wine cooler (I mean how essential is that!?!) means more lazarettos. And her Walmart plastic dresser fits right under the V-berth center cushion perfectly, giving you a bunch more storage. HINT: use the bungi cord to hold the drawers in from sliding out in rough going.
There are sunbrella covered cushions for that aft cockpit lazarette which had some sort of invisible stuff/staining on them, those spots turned dark after spraying with Formula 303. The stains are much improved after I vigorously scrubbed them with soap and water, but I wore out and quit. I had a lot to do to get the boat ready to come to Florida last Thanksgiving day! She had been out of the water and stored for the prior three years!
Keep scrubbing and things will improve, but we never used those cushions as we preferred folding chairs for the cockpit so maybe it won’t matter much to you either. They can be recovered for low bucks, and I expect you’ll see them during the survey. But, I mention them here since this is the only thing wrong with the boat I know of other than the maintenance issues like the door painting mentioned above. She really is in good shape, at this moment in time.
Bimini Side Curtains: There are separate side curtains with screens, and with Isinglass (high end yacht-grade) plastic windows. Most curtains are combined, and you roll up the plastic windows to expose the screens. However, this means the rolled up windows are hard against the stainless steel framing and of course they rub and scratch against it. So the manager at King Marine, I talked to him to order the bimini option before delivery, recommended getting both sets for a little more money.
They are all in perfect condition. The Isinglass panels were never used, but the screen ones saved our butts during cruises on the buggy St. John river which is gorgeous, in the NE corner of Florida. They were used for one season and don’t need 303 treatment yet. They are the best you can get which is why King has supplied all RT’s canvas since day one. They are stored in a cool long plastic case with wheels on it so it can slide deep into the Cave. If you have a guest sleeping there, at night pull it out and stick it on top of the entrance to the V-berth. It fits across the wood on both sides, is out of the way and you just put it back before getting underway.
Boat Window Covers: There are canvas covers for all windows stored somewhere in the boat. The extra Phifertex front window cover gotten from King is totally cool, since it lets 40% light in while still keeping the boat cool. The best thing, if I may say so, are my self-designed hatch inserts which are reflective and insulated. They are velcro attached and easily removed, but why would you take them out? They can stay inside the hatch covers when opened and don’t interfere with the hatch bug screens, which are stored in the Cave BTW. There are also privacy canvas covers for the front door, the Cave and the V-berth area.
Get the snap remover tool from West Marine and a wax-based snap lubricant if you like. I clean the snaps at least once per season, then lubricate them with WD-40. WD-40 is actually a solvent so it cleans if you rub away tarnish and dirt with a rag after applying it.
< What is this thing for? That’s the cap to the spare urine tank that was never used. I leave the cap in the bathroom under the shower control. The spare urine tank is stored (along with a spare solids tank and cover) in the port-side
lazarette in the V-berth. Normally, with an AirHead you change out the pee-tank after it gets full, if it is too late or you are in an awkward position and can’t detach it and pour it overboard. Of course, with Alto having a pump you never need to worry about that!
But, suppose your pee pump failed or something else happened (it’s a boat!) you can undue the quick disconnect fittings at the bottom of the tank. They seal and neither side will leak, thank God. Then remove the tank and switch it out for the spare should you ever need to. Same goes for the spare solids tank if you were doing the Great Loop and needed to cruise for weeks on end.
Winterizing: Alto has bypass tubes on the raw water intake lines for the A/C, generator and main engine coming from the strainers. They rise up to an easy to reach height, and when you are ready to run “pink stuff” which is water replacement antifreeze used in campers, you just close the seacock to cut off sea water entry.
Then, you unscrew the plug in the line, attach a special hose (clear plastic about 6’ long stored in the floor lazarette) and stick one end in a bucket of pink stuff and turn on the unit to suck the antifreeze through. The hose has different size fittings on either end, since the hose to fill the main engine is bigger than the hoses for the A/C or generator. This may not be an issue if you don’t have a freeze concern being south enough. Don’t forget to re-insert the threaded plugs on each vertical line to seal the system!
Lowering the Radar Mast: Have a friend help you raise and lower the radar mast. It is heavy and someone needs to hold up the SS stand while someone lowers it. Once you catch on you can use the block and tackle system rigged to do it yourself, but be careful! Alto goes under almost all bridges with her mast up. Heights are on the check list and the front of the While Log Book for easy reference.
But wait! There’s more: As I think of more stuff, I’ll add it here. Robb says you already know about Tugnuts so you can look up my comments under JerryE, where you’ll see some pictures of Alto, too. I think I have over 100 posts there. It never ends, it’s a boat which means constant vigilance and maintenance. But, you could have worse habits! Welcome aboard.
But, suppose your pee pump failed or something else happened (it’s a boat!) you can undue the quick disconnect fittings at the bottom of the tank. They seal and neither side will leak, thank God. Then remove the tank and switch it out for the spare should you ever need to. Same goes for the spare solids tank if you were doing the Great Loop and needed to cruise for weeks on end.
Winterizing: Alto has bypass tubes on the raw water intake lines for the A/C, generator and main engine coming from the strainers. They rise up to an easy to reach height, and when you are ready to run “pink stuff” which is water replacement antifreeze used in campers, you just close the seacock to cut off sea water entry.
Then, you unscrew the plug in the line, attach a special hose (clear plastic about 6’ long stored in the floor lazarette) and stick one end in a bucket of pink stuff and turn on the unit to suck the antifreeze through. The hose has different size fittings on either end, since the hose to fill the main engine is bigger than the hoses for the A/C or generator. This may not be an issue if you don’t have a freeze concern being south enough. Don’t forget to re-insert the threaded plugs on each vertical line to seal the system!
Lowering the Radar Mast: Have a friend help you raise and lower the radar mast. It is heavy and someone needs to hold up the SS stand while someone lowers it. Once you catch on you can use the block and tackle system rigged to do it yourself, but be careful! Alto goes under almost all bridges with her mast up. Heights are on the check list and the front of the While Log Book for easy reference.
But wait! There’s more: As I think of more stuff, I’ll add it here. Robb says you already know about Tugnuts so you can look up my comments under JerryE, where you’ll see some pictures of Alto, too. I think I have over 100 posts there. It never ends, it’s a boat which means constant vigilance and maintenance. But, you could have worse habits! Welcome aboard.
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